Education
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) I am looking to build a new bench that will serve many functions. It would be an outfeed table, assembly bench, finish bench, and anything else I see fit to use it for. I am very intrigued with the Ron Paulk Smart bench design and will most likely go that route. The big question comes down to what type of hold down/ clamping surface is best. I see lots of people do numerous T-tracks and use all the new style clamps designed for this, but on the other end is the numerous dog holes like an MFT top. I do currently have a track saw that I use a fair amount to break down items too unwieldy to use on my small contractor table saw. Which design do you think is better and why. If you choose the dog holes design is there any preference on 3/4" holes vs 20mm holes? Great podcast and keep up the great work. -Chris 2) This may be more of a question for Guy, specifically. I've heard him mention Trans Tint Dye multiple times on the show. As a hobbyist, I've used Minwax oil based stains for quite a while, but I'm starting to understand why Guy dislikes it. Could y'all explain a bit deeper how you use Trans Tint Dye? After a bit of research, it looks like it comes concentrated and should be diluted before use. Just trying to understand a bit more about the product as it seems preferable over oil based stains. Also, do any of you have any experience with any water based stains? And would you still prefer a water based dye over a water based stain? -Josh 3) Thanks for the great show. The question portion is a great help. We had a house built 4 years ago and the cabinet, doors, and drawers were sprayed with conversion varnish. The leftover product was left with us for touch up. I was under the impression that conversion varnish had a very short shelf life and would not keep but the painter said that as long as it was sealed it would be fine. Something recently fell against 2 of the drawers and damaged the fronts. I repaired the damage and tried doing the touch up with the leftover paint and a brush and it was not good. A friend sprayed it for me with his gun and they look great. The problem is that they have a glossy look that we can live with but they are also a bit tacky. They were sprayed 3 weeks ago and there is still a slight tackiness to them. Is the problem the fact that conversion varnish does not keep and is bad? Will it cure or should I strip it, go to Sherwin Williams, get a product they sell to the public, and redo them? Thanks -Bob Smith Huy 1) Hey guys I purchased a L-Fence from Ben Brunik. So far I’ve used it for long bevels. Do any of you use a L-Fence in your workflow? If you do what other procedures is it good for? Thanks guys -Nate 2) Hey guys! I am a huge fan of the show. I’ve been listening for a few months now and as a novice wood worker I’ve been learning a lot. I’m generally in my shop alone I’m looking to build out a first aid kit. I’ve got the basic tweezers and alcohol I use pretty regularly. But I feel like having a proper first aid kit would make sense around all of the blades I've got going. I’ve been looking at tourniquets, something I absolutely hope I never have to use but just trying to be on top of safety. Love to know if you guys keep something nearby like that just in case god forbid something were to happen. Thank you for the great show, stay well! -Mohamed 3) I’m a newish woodworker and noticed that it’s hard to gauge the actual difficulty level in potential projects (maybe youtubers just make it all look easy). What are some projects you would suggest beginners avoid until they establish a larger skill set? Any that look harder or easier than they actually are? Thanks for the podcast and covering so many nooks and crannies of the craft, certainly a better and more entertaining resource than the many Woodworker 101 books out there. Tyler