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Chris Malloy is the eldest of the famed Malloy surfing trio (big-brother to Keith and Dan) and the first to become an award-winning documentary filmmaker. His journey from country bumkin' on California's Central Coast to big-wave gladiator on the North Shore of Oahu (and back) is one you'll find highly entertaining and inspiring. I caught up with Chris on his sprawling 100-acre ranch to explore his family's surfing roots, the early days of outer-reef adventures, the inner workings of the Momentum Generation, as well as his forays into filmmaking, commercial directing, sustainable fashion and the farm-to-table business he helps his wife Carla with today. It's a wild ride, so jump on. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.